Although many travelers have likely heard of the rock-hewn churches that can be found in Lalibela, Ethiopia, very few people are aware of the "new Lalibela" that is now being carved out of the rockface by a devoted monk.
The stunning rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia are said to have been built with the assistance of a group of angels, according to local legend. The 11 monolithic churches can be found buried deep within the rock in the highlands of northern Ethiopia. They were constructed in the late 12th and early 13th centuries by King Lalibela, who asserted that he had erected the churches on the instruction from God.
The Crusades were in full force at the time, and it was too dangerous for pilgrims to visit the holy sites in Jerusalem. As a result, the churches of Lalibela were envisioned to be a "new" Jerusalem and a center of pilgrimage for Ethiopia's sizable community of Orthodox Christians.
Even in modern times, the churches continue to serve as important destinations for religious tourism for Ethiopia's Christian population. They are also recognized as a Unesco World Heritage site, drawing visitors from all over the world who want to experience one of the most remarkable historical locations in Africa.
Local guide Workeye Desale Alemu says that there are two potential explanations for why the churches were carved into the rock in the first place. In the preceding centuries, Muslim conquerors had destroyed many of the more conspicuous churches, and so King Lalibela thought (correctly, as it turned out), that burying them would keep them safely hidden from possible assailants. The first reason was as a sort of defense. According to Alemu, the second explanation is that King Lalibela "was also inspired by the Biblical account that Jesus was born in a cave in Bethlehem and was buried in a cave in Golgotha." Alemu is referring to the story in the Bible that says Jesus was born in a cave in Bethlehem.
Regardless of the reasons behind it, the architecture of the churches in Lalibela is quite outstanding. The Bete Medhane Alem church, which measures 33 meters in length, 23 meters in width, and 10 meters in height, is thought to be the largest monolithic church in the world. On the other hand, the Bete Amanuel church, which can be seen pictured above, is famous for its intricate stone carvings. It has been hypothesized that the building that is now a church was originally intended to serve as a palace for King Lalibela.
You could be forgiven for assuming that after King Lalibela finished his masterpiece, nobody other would have the audacity to try and top it since it takes enormous ambition to set out to build a "New Jerusalem," and you would be correct in that assumption. However, on a desolate mountain slope some 60 kilometers south of Lalibela, a dedicated monk and two church deacons are busily chipping away at the rock to create an incredible modern version of the churches.
They are in the process of constructing Dagmawi Lalibela, which literally translates to "the second Lalibela." The construction of these monolithic cathedrals began in 2010, and thus far they have built seven of them. All of the work being done on these structures is being done by hand. Similar to Lalibela, the complex will be comprised of 11 rock-hewn churches once it is finished. Hermit and solitary monk Abu Gebre Meskel Tesema rarely conducts interviews, but he has stated on record that one of the reasons he is erecting the churches is to disprove people who argue that the original Lalibela churches must have been erected with the assistance of outsiders.
Tesema selected this location for the second Lalibela for a number of reasons, including the proximity of a stream of holy water and the presence of an incomplete cave church in the area, the construction of which is believed to have been overseen by King Lalibela himself. Both of these factors played a role in Tesema's decision. In addition, according to Alemu, the "closer to God" nature of the exposed cliff and rock face construction of churches.
The general aesthetic of Dagmawi Lalibela is extremely close to that of the original, as well. One is even carved in the shape of a crucifix that is evocative of the Bete Giyorgis (Church of St. George) at Lalibela. Both contain striking carvings on the interior and the outside, which can be colorful at times.
Nevertheless, the Dagmawai Lalibela churches are far smaller than any of the other Lalibela buildings, and the order in which they were constructed is also distinct. While it is believed that the interiors and exteriors of the churches at the original Lalibela were carved at the same time, the churches at Dagmawai Lalibela are being erected from the ground up, with the exteriors being carved out first.
It's hard to believe, but Tesema managed her business all by herself for the first year. Today, though, he is being assisted in his work by two deacons from the church. Tesema undertakes all of the digging and carving himself, despite the fact that the deacons assist him in cleaning up the area and removing debris.
One of the deacons shared with me that Tesema does not consume any food and does not make use of any artificial illumination while he is working. When he starts carving the interior of one of the cathedrals, he frequently does so in conditions that are very close to being completely dark.
Tesema makes it a point to employ only the most fundamental building tools, such as chisels and hammers, and building methods that date back to the reign of King Lalibela. Because of this, bricks, mortar, and timber are not used in the construction process. On top of that, there are no comprehensive architectural drawings, and all measures are carried out visually, so that should have been enough to convince you.
Alemu says that employing these conventional methods of construction "causes people to experience a greater sense of spiritual dedication."
Tesema's contribution was acknowledged by the Ethiopian Orthodox church in 2018, and same year also marked the consecration of the churches. Now on a regular basis, services are held here for the local community as well as guests, and the interiors, which are softly lighted, are filled with paintings and objects of religious significance (shown).
Tesfa Tours operates a number of community-managed trekking guesthouses and linked walking routes on the escarpment directly above Dagmawi Lalibela, which allows visitors to easily visit the site as part of a half-day excursion from Lalibela. The site is known as the Church of the Holy Trinity.
Tesema has halted the most of his work at this area since there is nowhere else for him to build his remaining four churches on the rock face. Instead, he is searching for another nearby place that will do and hopes to find one soon. Tesema and the deacons want to finish the project over the next three years, despite the fact that the processes have been temporarily halted. They have high hopes that Dagmawi Lalibela will be regarded with the same sense of wonder by tourists in the far future as the New Jerusalem is appreciated by tourists in the present day.
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